Muscle Shoals: East Avalon Recorder

Shenanigans happen during Muscle Shoals recording sessions with Reddog, the legendary Clayton Ivey and Bob Wray, the hilarious studio owner Charles Holloman, and joy-spreading-drummer Justin Holder. Tune in and turn it up!

Clayton Ivey has sat on hundreds of recording studio couches in his 55 years of playing keyboard on thousands of songs with some of the greatest musical artists from around the world. He was also producer on some of those toe-tapping and chart-topping songs recorded in Muscle Shoals or Nashville or Memphis or NY or LA.

“I love this room,” Clayton says, sitting on a long black velvet couch facing the recording board where Charles Holloman, owner of East Avalon Recorders, focuses on the computer’s pulsing tracks.

Of all the studio rooms he’s occupied, Clayton likes this room the best.

Looking from Clayton’s favorite room into the recording booth: Clayton is at the Wurlitzer on the right, Bob Wray is on bass, and Justin Holder is on drums.

Across the room, blues guitarist Reddog faces the recording booth, swaddled by his Stratocaster. His stance and uniform — backward baseball cap, black T-shirt and cowboy boots, cinched jeans — hasn’t changed in the 35 years I’ve known him.

Reddog’s cool exterior belies his churning passion for the blues, and the hard, hard work he’s done leading up to this moment: standing in Charles’ studio with just two sessions scheduled to record his nine songs alongside some crazy-talented musicians.

Reddog plays his tunes for the rhythm section in the booth.

We can’t leave women out of Reddog’s art form. Debra, his girlfriend, is here, supporting his every effort and documenting the scene. Also, female back-up singers will record in a subsequent session. Any time Reddog mentions adding the women’s voices to a chorus or intro, his eyes light up and he smiles underneath his Deputy Dawg mustache.

In this moment, though, Reddog’s cool exterior might just crack under the pressure of guiding a team of spirited musicians in laying down the rhythm for his album of diverse songs: a lullaby, a straight blues tune, a Steely Dan throw-back, a jazzy instrumental, and a Marshall Tucker-sounding homage to the sound legacy of Macon and Muscle Shoals.

I can’t say any more about Reddog’s songs or the album right now, but I’ll definitely write about all the details when the album launches in late 2025.

“I’ve always loved this room,” Clayton continues from the couch, where he’s reclined, his long legs crossed at the ankles.

“It’s cozy,” Charles says, spinning from his computer to face Clayton.

The black walls, baffles, fairy lights, and layers of rugs create the feeling of being in a Genie’s bottle; a place you don’t mind hanging out when the Muscle Shoals magic starts to happen.

East Avalon Recorders is Clayton’s favorite place for making music. He’s the reason Reddog is recording his second album with Charles, a North Carolina native who learned music technology at Georgia State University and followed his dream of moving to Muscle Shoals and opening his studio.

Charles Holloman, owner and sound engineer of East Avalon Recorder, captures music.

Charles carved the studio out of a 60s ranch-style home on East Avalon Drive, tucked behind industrial buildings only blocks from the flashing lights of Muscle Shoals’ airport.

Adding to the coziness, sound barriers of heavy velvet curtains or glass screen doors block noise from the house’s entry and kitchen. The woolen rugs dampen the sound.

There’s a living room for chatty people to visit, so their words aren’t captured, and a bedroom for musicians to catch up on sleep. Many, many people have poured themselves onto the black velvet couch where Clayton is chilling.

Charles didn’t share any specific story about a couch-crasher — like the one about Joe Cocker at Muscle Shoals Sound Studio sleeping on their camel-colored couch in a drugged state for a week, burning cigarette holes in the leather. It’s the same couch the Rolling Stones can be seen sitting on in the Muscle Shoals documentary. That same couch is still in the renovated Muscle Shoals Sound Studio today… patched with duct tape.

When Clayton agreed to play keyboard on Reddog’s album he pulled in Bob Wray on bass (another legendary session player) and Justin Holder on drums. Clayton also chose Charles and East Avalon Recorders. After recording an album at East Avalon in 2021, Reddog was hooked on Charles, too.

“Charles is so attentive and accommodating, Man,” Reddog says. “He’s kind and does good work.”

“What do you know about this rug?,” I ask Charles, pointing to the large rug under our feet. Its intricate floral design with sleeping lambs looks authentically Turkish, indicating great value, unlike the computer stand which is propped up by two books and held together with a blue ratchet strap. This comical (and effective) rigging shows how most recording studios in Muscle Shoals are not fancy. That’s because plain, good people use plain, good sense to design their plain, good creative spaces.

After all, studio design is all about the physical properties of sound waves. Expenses are spared on the aesthetics of a studio and lavished on the equipment that captures the sound. Placement of instruments, baffles, and ceilings are more important than decor when capturing sound. For instance, walls are sometimes angled 10 degrees to properly direct sound, and baffles of burlap-covered insulation help to “deaden” an area. Those baffles may not be pretty, but they work.

Muscle Shoals, thank the good Lord, is bling-free.

“My Mom bought this rug in the early 90s,” Charles says, looking down. He’s always responsive like that, turning his full attention to others. He’s also consistently upbeat, a laugh at the ready behind his beard and glasses. He’s the one usually cracking everyone up with his sharp wit. Funny flies out of Charles as natural and unstoppable as a sneeze. “For eight years these chairs have rolled over this rug, but you don’t see any wear.”

There is absolutely no wear on that nice rug. And why does the rug matter? Because if it’s truly antique and from the middle east, its value would indicate Charles comes from a well-to-do family. Yet, he doesn’t act like it. He’s as humble as his studio’s decor.

Charles is a down-to-earth guy. Nice and hard working.

As a musician, Clayton clearly feels at home here with Charles. The kind of home where family surrounds you, so you can be your true self. No judgment. Reddog feels at home here, too, even though he’s got some nervous energy as he prepares to record with Clayton.

Looking at Clayton — kicked back on the couch in his “Cat Dad” ball cap — you’d never know his storied career included playing keyboards for Etta James, Clarence Carter, Wilson Pickett, Mac Davis, and hundreds of other artists whose music nudged societal changes and still shapes our lives.

Clayton started playing at Rick Hall’s FAME Studios after the original group of session players, The Swampers, left to form Muscle Shoals Sound Studios. Clayton later opened Wishbone, his own recording palace closer to the Tennessee River. After selling Wishbone, he continues to play at studios around town… at his pleasure. Because, after his years on a piano bench, Clayton can do what he wants when he wants.

When Debra asks Clayton how many sessions he’s played since the 60s, he says, “Probably 10,000-15,000.” We all agree the total is likely closer to 15,000.

Debra, Reddog’s girlfriend, documents the session.

Clayton is just like his buddy Bob Wray and other Muscle Shoals session musicians: even though they’ve contributed to hundreds of hit records, and spent time with the most famous of celebrities, their daily life mirrors us average folk.

Clayton’s discography will wow anyone who looks him up, but Clayton is still the same Muscle Shoals guy of his youth: humble, funny, tolerant, hard working, straight talking, excellent piano player, and proud Papa to his feline “boys,” Scooter and Ollie.

He loves those two cats to pieces.

Bob, a Wisconsin native who somewhat resembles Walter Matthau, is another guileless, long-time session player who performed on hundreds of hit records and currently enjoys his simple Muscle Shoals life.

Bob still lives in his 1947 lakeside house which he bought in 1976 and proceeded — with his own hands — to put in all new plumbing and electrical systems. He’s had nine dogs since 1976, mostly labs, and his current pet, Elke (pronounced Elkah), is the first one to live inside. Bob is discovering the joys of having a puppy underfoot in the kitchen.

Bob is cool. Maybe it’s the decades of performing with famous people… and being famous himself. He’s not easily rattled and at 77 he still carries his own bass to his car, even in the dark and rain, even when others offer to help.

When Bob and Clayton sit together on the velvet couch in Charles’ cozy studio, they argue like Matthau and Jack Lemon in the movie Grumpy Old Men. Those of us lucky enough to witness their teasing banter can’t help but snigger and relish the fake acrimony. They may be “old,” (I’m not totally convinced of that) but these men definitely aren’t grumpy.

Clayton and Bob started playing together 55 years ago when the Osmonds came to Muscle Shoals; their first song playing together was One Bad Apple.

“Donnie Osmond was 11 years old,” Clayton says from under his cap bill. “I can’t believe he’s now 66!”

Donnie Osmond turned 67 in December 2024.

And yet here these two men are, still playing sessions together (and apart) and still arguing over chord charts, which Clayton writes.

Chord Chart for “Still Crazy After All These Years” on display in the Muscle Shoals Sound Studio.

Chord charts have a long history, but a special version is used in most Muscle Shoals studios, a method popularized in Nashville by Neal Matthews, Jr., who charted songs for the Jordanaires.

Talk about super-famous and super-prolific studio musicians! The Jordanaires formed in the late 1940s as a harmony gospel group and sang as back-up on thousands of hits, including most of Elvis’ gospel and hit-movie songs, only dispersing in 2013 when the group’s leader, Gordon Stoker, died from a stroke. Because Stoker was owner of the group’s name, he took it with him in death.

Matthews’ method of charting chords became known as the Nashville Number System (NNS) and he literally wrote the book on it: The Nashville Numbering System: An Aid to Playing by Ear. The method uses numbers to designate chords and other symbols for tone and sustain, etc.

Looking at a chart is like looking at space math.

“Heeeeere’s your chart,” Charles says to Justin, the drummer, a tall wild-child with a massive heart and massive black wavy hair which makes him look a little like Weird Al Yankovic. But Justin isn’t weird, he’s 150% alive with a wit to match Charles’ quick humor. Their exchanges are entertainment anyone would pay to see. If they go through with their podcast idea of “Muscle Shoals Now” (which I pray they do!!), it’ll be the most-accessed podcast in history.

Justin, 42 and built like a wrestler, loves wrestling and is on a high in the studio because he met his childhood hero, Hulk Hogan, just two days before. Adding to his glee, Justin tells us how he and his buddy were singing while waiting in line to see the Hulk and they made it onto the local news.

Justin very kindly let’s the author play drums while he taps the Tambourine.

Justin is high on life. He’s a session drummer around town, has recently worked with Band Loula, and will tour with Shenandoah for six months as their drummer heals from shoulder surgery. Musicians like Justin don’t just get invited to sessions because of their talent, they get picked because of their cheery personality and awesome attitude.

So when Charles hands Justin the chord chart for the next Reddog song they’ll record, Justin compliments Charles by saying, “Man, NO ONE hands me a chart the way you do.”

Charles energetically replies, “It’s an art. It’s Chart Art!”

Everything these guys are doing in the studio, from playing instruments to creating a collaborative environment, is art. Of course, folks comment on how a chord chart looks like trigonometry, not art.

As the players are all listening to Clayton explain number by number how he charted this particular Reddog song, Bob shouts out, “it’s wrong” and “it doesn’t make sense,” and Charles declares, “It’s Muscle Shoals Math.”

“Chart Art” and “Muscle Shoals Math”: Charles is the Shakespeare of this hamlet, making up new word phrases.

Clayton charted all of Reddog’s songs for the drum, bass, and keyboards weeks in advance of this session. These charts are excellent for players to use instead of reading sheet music, allowing them to create their own riffs throughout the song.

Clayton can play any keyboard, any genre. He’s quite a sight sitting at the grand piano, or Wurlitzer electric piano, or the Hammond B3 organ.

I’m terribly sorry for every person in this world who hasn’t had the privilege of watching/hearing Clayton run his fingers over any keyboard while recording or just warming up those fingers.

Clayton at the Wurlitzer with Reddog on the acoustic guitar.

At the Wurlitzer, he sits with earphones on, but the right ear exposed.

“Remember this tune?” Clayton says, glancing at me and Debra. The Wurlitzer hums out the chorus of Patches, the great Clarence Carter song.

“That’s Patches!” I say, thrilled to recognize it and sing along on the chorus.

“I played piano on that tune,” Clayton says, still pushing on keys.

Just the day before, Debra and I had stood in Studio A at FAME Records where Clarence and Clayton had recorded that very song and we listened as Jordan, our tour guide, played Patches through the studio’s incredible speakers. In the Very Room it was recorded in! Standing by the Very Piano. And now here’s Clayton, the Very Player on that song. I felt dizzy.

Jordan in FAME Studio A plays hits for us; Debra is on the left.

Then FAME tour-guide Jordan, who’s also an assistant engineer, played other songs recorded in Studio A, like Etta James singing Tell Mama, and Wilson Pickett singing Hey Jude, with Duane Allman on guitar, and Aretha Franklin’s I Never Loved a Man (the way I love you), and there, in front of us, was the grand piano she sat at and sang at. [Learn more about our FAME Tour]

The story of Aretha recording just that one song at FAME involves her drunken husband and studio owner Rick Hall later confronting the couple in their hotel room. I won’t share the story because Rick Hall tells it so well in his book The Man from Muscle Shoals: My Journey from Shame to Fame.

In his book, Rick tells stories about each hit song and artists he discovered, and best of all, it comes with a CD of the documentary Muscle Shoals.

Clayton is in the documentary!

“Do you remember this one?” Clayton says from the Wurlitzer.

Debra and I are digging this name-that-tune game. As Clayton is playing a few notes, Charles calls out to him.

“Clayton, let’s get started!”

“Hang on a minute!” Clayton yells, continuing to play for us.

“Baby, Baby,” Clayton says, and I finish by singing, “Don’t get hooked on me. That’s Mac Davis!”

“That’s right, I played keyboard on so many of his albums,” Clayton says.

And now Clayton is playing keyboard on Reddog’s album, right in front of us.

“Oh, sure,” Clayton says each time Reddog asks him to play another keyboard; He’ll practically run over, put on earphones, and play a few riffs to wake up the instrument.

These session players are seeing each of Reddog’s songs for the first time in real time. Clayton listened in advance and created the chord charts, so he’s had time to think about what he’d like to play on each song. But Justin on the drums and Bob on the bass are just now hearing the songs as Reddog plays and sings each one all the way through.

As Reddog plays and sings, Clayton, Bob, and Justin reference the chord chart and discuss amongst themselves what they’ll play during intros, verses, bridges, choruses, etc.

Sometimes they’re so inspired by what they’re hearing, they’ll get off that black velvet couch and head to the studio, walking quickly, with purpose. Bob is usually the first off the couch and marching to his bass. The musicians then perform the song together as Charles captures it all.

Occasionally someone will yell out “damn” or “shit” as they flub a note and the music stops while Charles, with a click of the mouse, backs them up a measure or two and they start over.

Clayton on his way back into the studio talking with Reddog about re-recording.

When the song has been recorded, these raucous musicians return to the couch, or Justin lies on the floor behind the sound board, and they all listen to their playing.

“Oh, I can fix that,” Bob says when he hears a missed bass note or an arhythm.

I just hear a good song, but there goes Bob, headed toward the booth’s door, saying to Charles, “Let me fix that spot,” or “let me take it from the top.” Bob’ll sit alone in the recording booth with his bass and run through the entire song all by himself.

Bassist Bob Wray.

Not to be outdone, Clayton will stand up and trot toward the booth saying, “I’m gonna’ redo that bridge on the acoustic,” and Charles just clicks the mouse and they re-record.

After 55 years as professional musicians, Clayton and Bob still want their sound to be perfect, and they’ll spend the extra time and energy to get it right, not listening to anyone who disagrees. They still have their work ethic. They still care.

They still trot to their instrument to do better.

By the end of the second night, we all feel like family.

Donna, Bob’s lovely friend, heats up the the crockpot of meatballs and tins of yummy jalapeño dip and artichoke dip she made for our crowd. We have to be quiet in the kitchen for most of the night because Reddog set his amplifier in there. Something about getting a better guitar tone with greater volume. So the amp is set apart to avoid overwhelming the other sounds.

Charles, Justin (standing), Donna, Bob, Clayton, Debra, and Reddog listening.

On our tour of Muscle Shoals Sound Studio earlier in the day, Chase, our tour guide, explained how Duane Allman would stand just outside the bathroom door, with the door open and his amp blasting inside the tiny room, and Duane would crank up his amp nearly twice as loud as the other instruments, to get that better tone.

Duane played that way on Boz Skaggs’ Loan me a Dime, one of my favorite tunes of all time, of all genres. That song is perfect and when tour-guide Chase had pointed to where I was standing and said that’s where Duane had played Loan me a Dime decades ago, I got goose bumps all over.

On the Muscle Shoals Sound Studio tour, Chase also played Take a letter, Maria, the first official hit for the new studio and its founders, the Swampers: Barry Beckett, Jimmy Johnson, Roger Hawkins, and David Hood.

For nine years at Muscle Shoals Sound Studio, from 1978-1987, before they moved to a bigger studio down by the Tennessee river, the Swampers were involved in the biggest hits of the day. Barry Beckett, the piano player, was an intelligent man of few words and the only one who could read music, so he charted the songs at that studio.

The Swampers got their start at FAME as the second group of session players hired by Rick after the first group gained recognition from their many hits and struck out on their own to further their careers.

Cher and crew in front of Muscle Shoals Sound Studio, the first artist to record at the new studio.

The Muscle Shoals Sound Studio building started out as a casket showroom and continued on after the Swampers moved out, possibly as an appliance store at one point. The building eventually became run down but with the release of the Muscle Shoals documentary, a foundation was formed to restore and reconstruct the studio just like it appeared in 1978. The instruments that had gone home with musicians came back and were placed where they had originally stood.

Muscle Shoals Sound Studio is still available for recording, but three of the original Swampers are gone, leaving only David Hood to carry on their legacy.

Visitors to the Muscle Shoals Sound Studio will find their jaws dropping at stories from the studio’s glory days, as told by guides Chase and Terrell, a Muscle Shoals native who worked for record companies his entire career.

Terrell even went to Capricorn Record’s famous annual picnics back in the 70s where Dickey Betts ate off his plate and drank his cocktail while Terrell talked with Phil Walden, founder of Capricorn (with his brother Alan). Now living in Muscle Shoals and retired at 71, Terrell gives tours and tells stories.

Terrell and the author at Muscle Shoals Sound Studio with the Americana Music Triangle on the wall.

Seems you can stand anywhere in Muscle Shoals, say the name of a musician, and someone nearby will have a story about working with, playing with, fighting with, or just interacting with that person. The shoals are just as covered up in good stories as they’re covered up in good music and good musicians. And history and successes.

Rick Hall also had a linkage with Phil Walden and Capricorn Records — not just with Duane playing at FAME for a year before forming the Allman Brothers Band –but with Otis Redding recording at FAME. The studios also have a history of cooperating with other studios in Memphis and Nashville, each city only 2.5 hours from Muscle Shoals.

These cities are all part of the golden Americana Music Triangle reaching from Nashville to Memphis and on down through Muscle Shoals, Tupelo, and other hotspots, all the way to New Orleans.

The golden triangle encompasses areas where nine distinct American musical genres emerged: Blues, Jazz, Country, Rock n’ Roll, R&B/Soul, Gospel, Southern Gospel, Cajun/Zydeco, and Bluegrass. That’s a hell of a lot of artistry and history, dating back to the Paleolithic period before the arrival of Europeans, to be proud of. A hell of a lot.

Makes a person woozy to think of the musical masters and average Joes and Janes all dedicated to making music through good times and through horrible, oppressive times.

The Americana Music Triangle isn’t just a region where nine genres were formed; it’s where The Nine American Musical Genres originated.

I’m disappointed my home state of Georgia didn’t make it onto the map. We’re terribly proud of our musical history. But I’m grateful to have grown up around Macon with soul, “Southern rock,” R&B, blues, etc.

I lucked into being a Georgian by birth; Reddog chose the Deep South as his home decades ago. As a songwriter, singer, and guitarist, he was drawn to the region and performed in Atlanta for decades. Learn more about Reddog’s musical journey in this article.

Reddog’s current recording at East Avalon Recorders is a testament to his talent and fine skills and love of music. He wrote the songs at his kitchen table, just like Dickey Betts wrote Ramblin’ Man in the kitchen at the Big House, the Allman Brothers’ home located on Highway 41 in Macon and now a museum honoring the band.

Reddog was inspired as a teenager to pick up a guitar after hearing Duane Allman play. As a 70-year-old songwriter, Reddog writes his songs in his Pensacola, Florida, home and then begins more work: organizing recording dates, players, travel plans, finances, rehearsals, etc., all toward the goal of producing an album.

The rhythm section goes down in these two recording sessions, then Reddog will come back to record his vocals with final lyrics, and then his beloved female back-up singers will layer in grace and beauty, filling each song to its fullest.

As we’re recording over two days, Clayton pulls triple duty on the Wurlitzer, acoustic piano, and B3 organ, while Justin, the drummer, plays a dual role of drums and percussion, adding separate tracks for maracas, the tambourine, and a clapping tool. As with everything he does, Justin brings in the joy with his percussion playing; it’s hard not to smile when Justin is being Justin.

Come to think of it, being in the studio, watching the crew work and create, and cut up and tease each other, made my face ache from constant smiling.

Muscle Shoals hasn’t changed much since the 60s. I mean, chain restaurants and stores have moved in, but much of the old buildings/architecture remains, like a time capsule wedged in place by surrounding towns.

On our Muscle Shoals Sound Studio tour, Chase had told Debra and I that he got the tour guide job through a college friend. That evening, arriving for Reddog’s recording, we met Colin, an assistant engineer. At some point Colin mentioned having worked as a tour guide.

“Did you work at Muscle Shoals Sound Studio? I asked. “And did you get Chase his tour guide job?”

“Yes, I did,” Colin said.

“We just met him today and he told us his college friend got him the tour guide gig,” I tell Colin, laughing at the small-townness of meeting these two friends separately on the same day.

Music in Muscle Shoals is a tight industry; the studios seem to collaborate more than compete with each other. The musicians play at all the studios… and there are quite a few studios in town.

The Shoals area is about making music, playing creatively, supporting each other’s growth, and sharing opportunities. When everyone in Muscle Shoals plays to their strengths and to the community’s mystical roots, the entire area is lifted up… together.

And sustained like a note held.

The author with Clayton Ivey and Bob Wray.

Clayton and Bob walk around like the small-town guys they are, with a mountain of stellar legacy work behind them. They’re still building up that mountain. They carry the history of the Shoals sound in their blood and spread it to others like a virus people choose to catch.

Smart guitarists, singers, and songwriters like Reddog understand the value of working with and taking musical cues from Clayton and Bob.

After recording twice at East Avalon with Charles, and playing alongside Clayton, Bob, and Justin, Reddog is now woven into the musical heritage and magical mysticism of Muscle Shoals; an organic fabric that grows stronger with time.

FAME Recording Studios

You can let your guard down in Muscle Shoals, Alabama, and be your true music-loving self, geeking out on the sound of the place, its stories and history. I recently stood in FAME’s Studio A and felt washed in Soul that stuck to my hair and burrowed into my bone marrow.

Home of the Muscle Shoals Sound

Above a plain brown door at FAME Recording Studios in Muscle Shoals, Alabama, are these hand-painted words:

“Through these doors walk the finest musicians, songwriters, artists, and producers in the world.”

Just think, through that plain brown door walked the likes of:

Etta James, Wilson Pickett, Aretha Franklin, Alicia Keys, Demi Lovato, Jason Isbell, Jimmy Hughes, Buddy Killen, Clarence Carter, Candi Staton, Dan Penn, Arthur Conley and Willie Hightower, Mac Davis, Paul Anna, the Gatlin Brothers, Jerry Reed, John Michael Montgomery, Pam Tillis, Blackhawk, Tim McGraw, Reba McEntire, All-4-One and Shenandoah Drive-by-Truckers, Heartland, Duane Allman, Gregg Allman, Blind Boys of Alabama, Michael McDonald, Delbert McClinton, Alan Jackson, Aloe Blacc, Alison Krauss, Steve Tyler, the Osmond’s, Marie Osmond.

That’s just a skimming of the artists who have recorded with FAME since 1971. There’s an entirely different catalogue of songs written by writers eventually signed to FAME’s publishing subsidiary, including:

Dixie Chicks, George Strait, Joe Diffie, Martina McBride, Travis Tritt, Sara Evans, Cyndi Thomson, Aaron Tippin, Billy Ray Cyrus, Alabama, John Michael Montgomery, Chris Ledoux, Perfect Stranger, 3 of Hearts, Chad Brock, Rebecca Lynn Howard, Michael Peterson, Kristin Garner, T. Graham Brown, Wild Horses and Kenny Chesney.

Rick Hall built FAME Recording Studios on Avalon Avenue in 1970. He consulted with an expert out of Nashville on Studio A’s dimensions — wall lengths and angles, ceiling heights — to optimize the sound.

Rick Hall was a task-master when it came to capturing sound… and not just any sound, but the Muscle Shoals sound he created by racially integrating artists and his studio. For instance, when he discovered the perfect sound from an instrument’s placement within the studio, he insisted on keeping that instrument in that exact spot for all recording sessions.

We know a great deal about Rick and his music philosophy from the 2013 documentary Muscle Shoals, a film that prompted people from all over the world to visit this village on the Tennessee River, tucked into the northwest corner of Alabama, close to the borders of Mississippi and Tennessee. 

The Shoals area is made up of four communities/cities that all run together: Muscle Shoals, Tuscumbia, Florence, and Sheffield. They feel like one small town with different neighborhoods.

When you’ve traveled to Muscle Shoals, its location makes clear that visitors have a specific need to be there. Otherwise, they might not ever visit Muscle Shoals. I mean, it’s out there. But what a beautiful ride through Alabama countryside.

My friend Debra and I are in town to attend recording sessions with Reddog, her boyfriend and my long-time friend who was kind enough to invite me along as he puts together his latest blues album at East Avalon Recorders.

While in town, we also tour Helen Keller’s home, Ivy Green, built in 1820, the second home erected in Tuscumbia, and only three miles from FAME. The Keller’s house, and the pretty cottage where Helen lived with her teacher Anne Sullivan, are perfectly preserved and worth a visit.

This is the cute cottage next to the Keller’s home where Helen lived with her teacher Anne.

Rick’s FAME building looks just like it did when Rick opened the doors: wood-paneled walls, low couches, chunky brown craved end tables and desks, massive beige ceramic lamps with yellowed drum shades, pictures hanging in the same spot for decades.

Stepping into FAME’s front door is stepping back into the 70s. Usually Linda Hall, Rick’s kind widow, is sitting in the little box office to the left, selling tickets or answering phones. Linda and Rick’s oldest son, Rick, Jr., is now President and CEO of FAME. Their second son, Mark, is a songwriter, known for penning the Brooks and Dunn tune I Like it, I Love it, (and other songs) and their third son, Rodney, is a lawyer in Birmingham. 

Straight ahead, after stepping into FAME, is that doorway with the hand-painted letters.

My friend Debra and I take a minute to absorb exactly what those words mean and as we’re awwwing with our jaws dropped, the plain brown door opens and tall, lanky Will walks out. As the door slowly closes, Debra catches a glimpse of two guys chatting inside.

“Jordan!” She yells as the door clicks shut. “Is that you, Jordan?”

Will turns to us and says, “Yes, that’s Jordan,” and then the door opens and Jordan pokes his cute face in, smiling.

“Jordan,” Debra says, approaching him, “you probably don’t remember me but we met last year when I visited.”

That’s Debra, right there. She never meets a stranger and then she remains connected with her new friend for years. When Debra visited last year she also met Linda Hall, and when Linda heard Debra was from Andalusia, Alabama, Linda asked if Debra knew Brenda Gantt, a YouTube baking sensation who lives in Andalusia. 

Linda is a big Brenda Gantt fan and it turns out Debra does know Brenda, so prior to our Muscle Shoals visit and tour of FAME Studios, Debra had Brenda Gantt autograph her latest cookbook to Linda, AND Debra is arranging for Linda to have a stay at Brenda’s B&B!

That’s Debra, right there. Always thinking of others. Debra is a huge music fan like me, which explains why she’s visited Muscle Shoals and the studios in the past (and to attend her granddaughter’s softball World Series competition). Debra is the perfect companion and guide for experiencing the space where so much of the music that shaped us was created. “Crafted” might be a better word for what Rick and those musical artists did in arranging the sound coming out of their mouths and instruments. 

Music is a craft and an art and a science with notes guided by math; sound guided by physics; words guided by heart; and expression guided by soul. Deep soul. The deeper the better. And Rick’s artists knew their soul and how to send it around the studio to be captured for generations to enjoy… and emote to.

Music might just give life, and it sure makes life soar. Every singer, songwriter, engineer, and producer knows that fact. Life without music would be brutal. 

Turns out Jordan does remember Debra from last year and so as they catch up and chat (Debra never lacks for things to talk about or ways of making people feel comfortable, even with a stranger or mere acquaintance), I get our tour tickets from Will, including a lanyard that visitors get to keep. Souvenir alert!

Wouldn’t you know it, because life is so good, Jordan is our tour guide! 

Me, Jordan, and Debra under that hand-painted sign.

Like most Muscle Shoals natives, Jordan is kind and responsive, answering our many questions with patience. Certainly he’s heard it all before, but never acts like it. I can only imagine how many people he meets who think they know more about FAME and its artists than he does. 

But Debra and I are all ears, eager to learn what Jordan knows.

Here’s what we learn about Jordan: he grew up just a few blocks from Muscle Shoals.

“I remember driving by this building all the time with my grandfather and asking what it was,” Jordan says. “He told me about the studio’s history but I never considered it relevant to me.”

Jordan grew up smack-dab in the middle of the Muscle Shoals sound and didn’t think a thing about it. With music, though, you don’t really need to think to appreciate it. Just feel. Absorb. 

Proximity is a powerful thing.

The Muscle Shoals part of The Shoals looks dated. Fast food and retail chains are all over Muscle Shoals now, but the original retail spaces built along Avalon Avenue are typical of the 60s and 70s; single story buildings with funky mid-century-inspired features; smallish with low ceilings.

I grew up in Warner Robins, GA, in the 70s, just 10 miles from Macon and Capricorn Records’ mighty productions, and at that time the main drag through town was Watson Boulevard sporting smallish retail spaces and several “shopping centers” that housed clothing and shoe stories, gift shops, barbers, beauty salons, local restaurants, bakeries, furniture, etc., that stand empty today, or now house thrift shops, insurance offices, quick loans, etc. These buildings are not-so-attractive anymore. All electric and phone lines run overhead on poles. Driving down Avalon Avenue in Muscle Shoals feels like driving through the old part of my hometown; shabby, dated, and comfortable. 

Tuscumbia, where Helen Keller grew up, is much more quaint with big and small houses from all eras on genteel avenues, the yards neatly groomed and a nearby downtown area typical of the turn-of-the-century era with red brick facades and large windows to lure shoppers with merchandise displays; shoppers stroll leisurely by for the experience of discovering novel shops or hip cafes.

FAME’s building, with its mid-century cement-block patterns and odd-looking mansard-like roof, still screams 60s/70s, and it’s not attractive, but that’s part of its charm. In its own way, the building is a delight to look at; the bright sun creating interesting shadow patterns on the walls. 

Once surrounded by open fields (where Duane Allman pitched a tent and hung out until Rick finally invited him into the studio to play), the building is now surrounded by asphalt parking lots, a CVS, and other homogeneous retail spaces, leaving little room between buildings. 

So this is Jordan’s stomping grounds even though he knew very little about FAME when growing up. And then one day he was sitting at a friend’s birthday party when his friend told another guest, who worked at FAME, that Jordan had set up a recording system at home. When the FAME guy asked Jordan about his equipment, Jordan told him what he owned and why he had chosen it. 

“You know more about equipment than a lot of people in the business,” the FAME guy told Jordan at the party. “You should work as a sound engineer.”

Jordan hadn’t thought of being an engineer, but buoyed by the guy’s advice he got a job at another studio in Muscle Shoals and worked there for four years, learning engineering before going to work at FAME as an assistant engineer… and tour guide.

FAME offers a 10am tour and a 3:30pm tour. At the 10am tour, Debra and I are joined by a middle-aged couple of newly-weds who work for the government in D.C., and live in Virginia. The guy is clearly a music nut and his wife made this trip happen to make him happy. He’s happy here, for sure, and as eager to learn as me and Debra.

The four of us tourists stayed in the building for more than two hours with Jordan’s kind guidance, asking questions, taking photos, lingering in certain spots to read materials, and goofing off by standing in Studio A and singing so we could say we sang there, along with Wilson Pickett, Etta James, Aretha Franklin, and our other idols. The building isn’t that big, but it’s filled with information, images, artifacts, and people recording records to this day (if it’s okay to still call them records).

As a writer, I don’t even have the words for what it feels like to stand in Studio A and listen to the songs that were recorded there. As a huge Etta James fan, I got chills to hear Tell Mama blasting from the studio’s exceptional speakers. If you haven’t listened to Clarence Carter sing Patches in a while, do yourself that favor. 

In studio A, Clarence’s deep emotions came through in each note, not just each word. Clarence, at first, had balked at recording the song, feeling its content about being poor reflected negatively on blacks, even though Rick, a white guy, totally related to the song because it absolutely reflected his extreme-poverty childhood and reminded him of his father’s struggles to bring up two kids alone in the 30s and 40s. Thank goodness Clarence listened to Rick and recorded that song. 

Jordan also played Hey, Jude for us, Wilson Pickett’s version with Duane Allman playing guitar, which Duane had convinced them all to record. Wilson Pickett also recorded Mustang Sally in that room. And, of course, Jordan had to play Aretha singing I Have never Loved a man (The way I love you), which will bring any human to their knees, if they’ll just let go and feel Aretha feeling that song. Oh, my goodness, the glory… or the cathartic despair. 

And then…

And then…

Etta James singing I’d Rather Go Blind, one of my favorite songs ever… and recorded right here in Studio A. Jordan plays it for us because I mention it.

If you ever want to shut the world out for eight minutes and experience Etta as a natural performer bringing joy and mischief, just watch as she sings I’d Rather Go Blind for a lucky audience at the 1975 Montreaux music festival. Thank goodness her performance was filmed!

Etta is an artist in many forms and she’s cute as heck in this video with her facial expressions and long, denim patchwork overall skirt! And her shouts of “Look out!” This performance is perfection. She shows up. She’s present with the audience and her band. She’s singing out — and loudly — into the venue space without a microphone at times. Her band members smile at her. She’s covered in sweat but it ain’t no thang.  

Etta is precious. Just precious. She has the voice, but she also has the personality. The crowd is silent. As a viewer, I’m silent, watching every pixel on the screen. Etta is having a conversation with each person in the room and she’s not flashy. She’s the opposite of flashy. She’s herself. After watching her 1975 video, you must watch Etta sing I’d Rather Go Blind 12 years later, in 1987, with Dr. John and introduced by B.B. King!

I spoke with Dr. John on the phone once, when he called the hudspeth report, an entertainment newspaper in Atlanta where I worked in the 80s/90s. I distinctly remember sitting at the desk and writing down his phone number, aware of who he was, engaging in pleasant conversation and trying not to sound starstruck. Dr. John was so nice and kind. A New Orleans native, he played in Atlanta often and over the years he’d play with the Allman Brothers Band, the last time in 2014 at a Gregg Allman Tribute Concert. 

Dr. John could the piano like nobody, and he had a unique sound and a sweet spirit, but his voice didn’t quite match Etta’s in their live performance. She knew how to perform from her soul and that alone is worth watching her video with Dr. John.

A cutout of Etta James, as she recorded at FAME, stands next to the front door, greeting guests.

Standing in Studio A and hearing those songs by Etta, Wilson, Clarence, and Aretha was the best, most spiritual, experience of the whole tour. (Thanks so much, Jordan, for raising us into the rafters!)

Standing in Studio A being washed in the soulful sound.

Muscle Shoals might just be THE Mecca of music lovers, along with (or more so than) nearby Memphis and Nashville. What you get in Muscle Shoals that you don’t get in Memphis or Nashville is a feeling of being part of the music family just by being there, whether you make music or not. 

Muscle Shoals people open their arms to everyone, fans and performers alike. Everyone in town has one goal: nourish their musical heritage. Some make a living making music and helping each other out, keeping Muscle Shoals a place that embraces fans. Folks who aren’t from Muscle Shoals, but choose it as their musical home, blend in with folks like Jordan who breathed in that sound their entire life.

Nashville feels like a small town when you’re walking on music row and enjoying the Ryman Theater, but the city sprawls and sprawls for miles into the surrounding countryside, making for a large metropolis along the river and beyond. Famous folks are usually left alone when out in public living their lives. That’s nice for them. They can go about their day without concerns of being hounded for autographs. And there’s charm in the Bluebird cafe, where the famous and the up-and-comers alike play for a crowd crammed into a tiny place. But the city is geographically large, diluting the on-site, in-town music magic.

You can just walk into FAME studios and meet the charming Miss Linda Hall, take a tour with Jordan and instantly be part of the family, connected to others in the area’s musical network where they all know each other. Muscle Shoals can’t sprawl out like Nashville or Memphis. It’s locked in by its surrounding Shoals neighbors. Not stunted growth, but a concentration of the sound, pinched in and influenced by its natural surroundings, especially the Tennessee river.

Ah, the river. Something in the water. That’s what they say about music in Macon, which sits on a straightaway of the Ocmulgee River that sometimes spills over, flooding so high it might cover vintage street lights on the river park’s pathway. And “something in the water” is said about Nashville, built up around the Cumberland River that sometimes spills over, once ruining treasured musical instruments housed in nearby storage units; and it’s said about Memphis, hugging the mighty Mississippi, a natural watery border between Tennessee and Arkansas. 

Borders are funny things. They demarcate geography, but they can’t contain that geography’s influence.

Memphis has a tight downtown area, too, including the Peabody Hotel with its entertaining ducks just a block from Beale Street. But, boy oh boy, how commercialized is Beale Street? Feels almost like an adult theme park… like New Orleans’ Bourbon Street. Why adults have to drink big-ass cups of beer and liquor to listen to music is beyond me. If I have a gripe about live music, it’s that most live music starts late and is typically played in places that serve alcohol. Not that there’s anything wrong with imbibing spirits. But thank goodness for an afternoon of live music in a place where toddlers can do their first public dance down-front to the delight of a large crowd, even the artists onstage. 

Beale Street has some serious music cred, though, known for players B.B. King, Albert King, Memphis Minnie, and Howlin’ Wolf. Beale Street is the home of the blues and the birthplace of rock n’ roll. W.C. Handy, the Father of the Blues, popularized the place and it just so happens that Mr. W. C. Handy was born in the Shoals (Florence). The log cabin he lived in is now a museum.

At least B.B. King’s famous BBQ place still sits at the top of Beale street and thrills diners with blues performances akin to what B.B. and original blues artists used to play. 

I visited B.B.’s Blues Club in 2020, at the height of Covid; Beale Street was eerily empty.
Just a sampling of musicians featured on the walls of B.B.’s Beale Street bbq place.

There are plenty of stories about FAME studio, its musicians and artists; about Rick getting into a fight with Aretha Franklin’s husband in their hotel room; about songs that turned into massive hits because of one small tweak — maybe adding an instrument or moving an instrument against Rick’s wishes. 

Rick tells his stories best in his book The Man from Muscle Shoals: My Journey from Shame to Fame, so I won’t retell any of those. It’s fun to hear the stories from Jordan when you’re standing next to the actual instrument or on the parquet patch in the center of Studio A or in the sound booth favored by Gregg Allman in Studio B. 

This is Gregg’s favorite recording booth in Studio B; He’d enjoy a little smoke in there, too.

Rick tells those stories well in his book, and the FAME tour guides have other “unwritten” stories to share. 

In addition to hearing those stories, there are many reasons to visit FAME:

The chill bumps. The reminder of how significant the music still is. The knowledge gained of the recording process. The feeling of being part of the Muscle Shoals sound. The jolt your heart receives when Wilson Pickett hits the high note or Aretha soothes the low notes. Jordan. Miss Linda. The souvenir lanyard. Stickers and vinyl records and CDs of FAME music. Peering at black and white photos of black and white people from your youth who shaped your life… who made you YOU… and are no longer with us. Standing in Studio A and being washed in Soul and R&B that sticks to your hair and burrows into your bone marrow. 

Debra can talk to anyone about anything. When she’s quiet and contemplative, something significant is happening. That’s what it’s like to be at FAME; seeing people become introspective and overwhelmed with emotion, feeling waves of meaning coming at them from all directions. Perhaps that’s the most important reason to visit FAME. 

Let down your guard in a safe space, be the music lover your soul is calling out to be. 

If Rick Hall’s dream for his studio and his body of work had been for eternal fame, for his music legacy to thrive, or for his FAME studio to operate for generations to come, then his dream came true and lives, humbly, at 603 Avalon Avenue, Muscle Shoals, Alabama, 35661.

Rick did it. In the curve of the Tennessee River he changed music.

He changed lives.

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